A “long-time” friend of mine (I’ve been told I can no longer use the phrase “old friend” especially when it relates to a female friend) contacted me yesterday and asked if I would photograph a friend of hers. He needed pictures for his website. He is running for political office and needed them as soon as possible. And that was how I ended up on the state capitol grounds today. I had forgotten that the legislature was in town so parking was a bit of a challenge, but I found something eventually. And I was early anyway…this will come as a shock to no one.
The Writing Process
Aside from saying I hear voices in my head when I write, for me writing fiction is like watching TV in my mind. The difference being, I get to decide what the characters do and say. I always find it interesting that even though I have an outcome in mind for a “scene” in a book, how I get there often changes.
Boat trip
(This is the last of four blog posts about traveling and working with the NBC crew to tell the story of the lobster divers of Honduras.)
I’m not sure what the actual design of the boat was originally, but it had been dramatically changed with storage bins on the bow and stern…presumably for lobster. To make the trip, we were carrying extra diesel fuel in barrels on the narrow decks. Several times we had to stop so the crew could siphon more fuel from the barrels into the fuel tanks. Often the crew did this while smoking cigarettes. At one point in the middle of the night they must have spilled some because the smell of diesel filled the cabin where we slept and the next morning everything was greasy.
Chris and I went out in the skiff to dive. We had asked to have our own tanks, which we didn’t get and also have lead weights which weren’t there either. We ended up using tanks from the dive boat. We had to try 12 different tanks to find four that would work. They all had garbage for o-rings. Fortunately Chris brought along weights so we could dive, although not together. He did three dives and I just got in one, but still got in some good shots.
At one point Nelson brought the bigger boat over to tell us we needed to move. We had drifted into Colombian waters. During the trip, we had ventured from Honduras, to Nicaragua and then Colombia. All without ever setting foot on dry land.
La Moskitia
(Day three of traveling with the NBC crew to tell the story of the Lobster Divers of Honduras.)
The Miskito Indians live in a region of Honduras and Nicaragua called La Moskitia, also known as the Mosquito Coast. It spans the far eastern end of both countries and the Indians pretty much ignore those borders. To get there, though, you have to fly or take a boat. There are no roads that lead from La Ceiba out to La Moskitia.
Same airport, same plane, but this picture was taken on my first trip to La Moskitia. |
The plane is a small high wing puddle jumper…which was appropriate since it was the rainy season and we landed in the rain with mud puddles on the dirt air strip. The recurring theme of this trip was equipment. It took a while for the baggage handlers to get everything off the plane so the rest of the crew wandered around the “terminal” buildings for a few minutes. They were surprised that one of the first human beings they saw was a paralyzed diver in a wheel chair. He was sitting in the terminal making crafts for sale.
The Moskito Indians are the only Hondurans who dive for lobster. And their semi-isolation tends to keep them close together. This makes them easy to forget about until you land in Puerto Lempira. Then, injured and paralyzed divers are everywhere.
We went straight to the hotel and then got ready to go right back out. We took most of our gear with us. Later that afternoon, we were going to meet up with the boat that would take some of us out to see the divers in action.
Before we left the hotel, though, Natalie was able to interview the director of the lobster divers association. He was the first to say it, but not the last, that even though groups hold meetings and make promises, they have received nothing from those organizations, not even a pencil.
The director and assistant director of the diver’s association accompanied us on a small water taxi boat to Kaukira. That is one of the villages where many of the divers live. When we got there, we went to the home of Nelson, who would be our boat captain as well. We loaded into his truck with his wife driving and went off to visit divers at their homes.
At the first one, where I had been before, the people next door were drunk and began yelling at us to go home, saying that people come to La Moskitia and point their cameras but nothing ever gets done. He yelled most of the time we were there.
We visited a couple more homes, taking time to talk to the divers and listen to their life stories. Most of them were just trying to feed their families. They didn’t really understand the risks of diving, even though they all knew others who had been injured before them. Every family in Kaukira has a disabled diver in it.
As I said, we all piled into Nelson’s truck to visit the divers. I tend to identify more with the camera guys, so I jumped in the bed of the truck with them. I was seated on the tailgate, with my camera up to my face most of the time. When we hit one deep rut in the dirt road, the rusted-through cable that held up the tailgate broke, nearly sending me crashing into the mud. Fortunately, Dr. Mejia was sitting beside me talking and he grabbed my arm to steady me while the camera crew yelled for the driver to stop.
When it was finally time to go to the boat, we cut straight across the peninsula, rather than going back around to the roads. We drove through a swamp and then came out on the beach where we met a small boat that took us through the surf to get to the large boat.
As soon as we got on the boat we knew there was a problem. It was old and run down and there was no bathroom. Space was very tight and there were only 5 bunks. We had 10 people with a crew of 6.
Another day, another diver
(This is the second installment of the behind-the-scenes account of traveling with the NBC crew for the Rock Center story.)
Monday morning dawned early for most of us. The time difference was two hours then (daylight savings time was still on) so even though most of us wanted to sleep to be.
This treatment was the 596th time Dr. Mejia had run a treatment since opening the clinic. He averages seven treatments per patient; often multiple divers are in the chamber at the same time. While Dr. Mejia sees the most severe patients, almost always with some level of paralysis and often with bladder control issues, he has had tremendous success. He has an 81 percent success rate of divers leaving the chamber under their own power. Often they need a cane or a walker, but they are in much better shape than when they arrived.
What still amazes me is that Dr. Mejia only charges about $300 US per diver. That is for all his care, not per treatment. Care includes treatment, food, lodging, physical therapy, any tests he has to run. Dr. Mejia doesn’t charge the divers. He charges the boat owners, although sometimes they won’t pay. He is reluctant to raise his prices any, however, as he is afraid the boat owners will refuse to pay, or worse will skip treatment all together.
Working With NBC
A little more than a year ago, NationalGeographic.com profiled the problems with the lobster divers in Honduras; they used several of my photographs and quoted Dr. Matias Nochetto from DAN and I about the issue as we were both working on the Harvesting Diver Project.
Tomorrow, I will post about our first full day on the ground in San Pedro Sula. Stay tuned..
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